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InstallGear 8 Gauge 25ft Black and 25ft Red Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable

$18.99

1000 in stock

InstallGear 8 Gauge 25ft Black and 25ft Red Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable Description

25-FEET (7.62m) [ 25FT RED + 25FT BLACK 8 GAUGE POWER/GROUND WIRE ] – The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire. Thicker wire presents less resistance to current flow.COPPER CLAD ALUMINUM (CCA) – CCA wiring provides a good conductor for power transfer. This is the most economical option when choosing power or ground wire. Systems that require more power should consider OFC wiring.RUGGED PVC JACKET – Allows free, wide and seamless adjustment of the required physical properties of this wire such as flexibility, elasticity, and impact resistance.EASY POLARITY IDENTIFICATION – This two color jacket allows for easy polarity identification. Making a polarity mistake could be damaging to your audio equipment.SOFT TOUCH JACKET – The jacket on our cable is designed with the installer in mind. The flexibility of this jacket allows for easy routing and has a low memory. 25-FEET (7.62m) [ 25FT RED + 25FT BLACK 8 GAUGE POWER/GROUND WIRE ] – The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire. Thicker wire presents less resistance to current flow. COPPER CLAD ALUMINUM (CCA) – CCA wiring provides a good conductor for power transfer. This is the most economical option when choosing power or ground wire. Systems that require more power should consider OFC wiring. RUGGED PVC JACKET – Allows free, wide and seamless adjustment of the required physical properties of this wire such as flexibility, elasticity, and impact resistance. EASY POLARITY IDENTIFICATION – This two color jacket allows for easy polarity identification. Making a polarity mistake could be damaging to your audio equipment. SOFT TOUCH JACKET – The jacket on our cable is designed with the installer in mind. The flexibility of this jacket allows for easy routing and has a low memory. This is cheap Aluminum wire that they try to pass off as copper. I was tricked by the product description and had the wire delivered. The jacket seems soft and quality constructed. But I wanted copper 8 gauge wire to power my radio setup. Read closely and buy the right thing. Wire is ALUMINUM not copper, which is not obvious from the product description. Dissolved after 2 years , with horrific galvanic corrosion. Wire is copper colored to fool you but is actually made of aluminum.I haven’t seen aluminum wire sold in decades, so I was not expecting anything besides copperLuckily this did not catch my truck on fire A Good DealJust want to help a bit with the size of wire actually neededall car audio places will tell you to go with 4 gauge or larger for my 750 and 1200 watt rms amps. And i did install 4 gauge at first and found it to be cumbersome to install and hide. But the wires where always ice cold so I new they where not being put under a load at all. I then did some more research on gauge size needed for the amount of watts being used and found by reading 2 different engineers works – the real geeks who know there stuff and are not trying to up sale or overprotect a product – that indeed 8 gauge is plenty good for my application – the proof being in that nothing is getting hot, not even close, not the wires or the connections. This is because not all charts take into context the lenth of the wire or the true watts being used.You can calculate the length of the wire very easy by just measuring.And for the true watts being used you can simply see what size of fuses your amp uses – for example, one of my amps that says it is 1500 watts max and 750 watts rms has 2 – 25amp fuses. That is 50 amps all together – times this by 12 (the volts your vehicle system uses) and this gives you the absolute max watts that my amp can put out before the fuses will pop. In my case for this amp it is 600 watts. Now we have a real (max) number of watts to work with. But lets not forget how you listen to your music and in my case I never turn up the volume to max. I know that I am only using 500 watts max and much less than that for a true rms.And now my rant has almost come to and end. My other amp is listed as 2400 max and 1200 rms. It has 2 -40 amp fuses. Giving it a true max watts of 960 and with my use of it being an actual max of 800 seeing that I never ho above 85% max volume because of distortion at max levels. Once again making the true rms much less than 800 the actual watts the wires would be under load with for any prolonged period of time while listening to music. Hope this helps. Again if anyone is in doubt. Run your system for a while at your max volume you use then go feel the wires and connections at/near battery/amp. If at any place it is hot to the touch then you are not getting your max watts out of your amp and need to go with heavier wires. Not to mention to avoid any hazards. This stuff is absolutely junk. The copper wires inside the cable corrode completely and just breaks apart within a matter of a couple months. Absolutely junk. It works great during those couple months but then suddenly it’ll just break apart out of nowhere. Junk. Would not buy again nor would I recommend this item to anyone else. Im running a Soundqubed HDS3.1 15″ rated 2400WMax/1200WRMS. I was originally pushing it w/an Orion Cobalt 2500.1D that’s rated [email protected] which is how it’s wired. I started w/ KnuKoncepts Kollosus OFC 4ga wire which, although I’m a fan of KnuKoncepts, it seemed like my Sub was under powered. After a clamp test I found I was, AT BEST, getting low 700’s. I figured that, w/Cobalt bein Orion’s budget brand of Amps, that my 2500.1D was most likely over rated but it had an internal Fuse rating of 120amps which take fuse rating X’s voltage output, so conservatively let’s say 12V, which my car always makes 13.9v when on, but at 12v that still comes to 1440 so I figured it must be under powered from lack of sufficient gauged 12v+ & gnd wire. Due to insufficient funds I made due w/ what I had but after 7mos my 2500.1D stopped workin correctly, began kickin in & out of protection mode & sounded terrible whenever it wasn’t in protection mode. I discovered this meant it was shot so I stepped up to the Cobalt 3500.1D but after just a month this Amp began the same problem. So I decided to try this 1/0 wire in hopes that this would stop the failures I kept having w/ my Cobalts, even though it’s CCA rather than OFC & I’ve always been a believer in OFC or nothing, but anyone who knows wire prices knows the significant difference in price for 20′ of 1/0ga OFC compared to CCA wire. I finally got it installed, haven’t got it hooked to a properly sized Amp for my sub since my Cobalts both shot craps already but the Power Acoustiks RZR Amp I’m temporarily using, til I can afford a larger amp again, seems to be happy with the power it’s receiving from this wire. It’s very flexible for 1/0ga CCA wire I was pleasantly surprised, made running it through my engine compartment & firewall easier than I had expected it to be. Although I haven’t measured officially it appears to be legit or very close to correct gauge. It’s wrapped in thick insulation but doesn’t seem to be a(use insulation to make up for insufficient wire) situation to make 2gauge appear to be 1/0ga. It’s definitely worth every penny of what it costs considering what you get & what you pay. Happy enough to buy again definitely regardless of it not being OFC. Thanks for the great wire @ an amazing price!

Verified purchase Yes Condition New. Easy One Touch Dash Windshield Mount 2. Наша Политика конфиденциальности и Политика использования файлов cookie содержат дополнительные сведения о том, как мы используем вашу информацию. guarantee floor has been wiped down and cleaned earlier than putting in. AINOPE 36W Fast USB and PD Dual Port Car Charger Now 8. 8_ The device clips to the edge of your computer s screen using a custom-mounted rubberised socket or an adhesive pad, and comes with a 360-degree magnetic ball mount and extendable arm. Heavy Metal - Finished with a scratch-resistant alloy surface to match even the most pristine vehicle interiors.

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