Metra 70-5521 Radio Wiring Harness for Ford 03-Up Amp


1000 in stock

Metra 70-5521 Radio Wiring Harness for Ford 03-Up Amp Description

Product Packaging:Standard PackagingMetra 70-5521 Radio Wiring Harness for Ford 03-Up Amp Factory amplifier integration harness 2 RCA Plugs plug into aftermarket radio’s pre-amp outputs One 24-pin power plug and one 8-pin subwoofer plug.Includes Ford Lincoln and Mercury 2003-2005 Turbowire and a 8-pin harness with a pair of RCAs for the OE woofer(s) 1.5K Ohm resistor can be used on the amp-remote wire to eliminate turn-on pop Allows for the installation of an aftermarket radio using the existing factory wiring and connectors It’s a fine harness for what it is but unfortunately for me it’s what it isn’t that was disappointing. I purchased this harness to wire my Boss aftermarket head unit in a 2006 Ford Mustang GT with the Ford Shaker 500 sound system. This harness does NOT connect an after market head unit to the Shaker amp contrary to what another reviewer stated. I’m giving the product a three star rating due to an unclear product description which led me to purchasing this item when what I actually needed was this: PAC C2R-FRD1 Radio Replacement for Select 2005-up CAN-bus Ford, Lincoln and Mercury Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015ASMIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_VH5.zb4WD0Q6R. Great product. I’ve had my new deck installed successfully with this product since Jan 2016, but my steering wheel controls did not work. Be aware that this harness doesn’t have pins/wires in every hole. For my Ford, you need Pin 18 to install the ASCW-1 unit into. I ended up not using my ASWC-1 from Jan-May, and I finally decided to get it going again. Since I did not want to harm any factory wires in any way (Metra suggested cutting insulation back on the factory wire and taping the SWC wire to it), I opted to buy a second harness, and remove a pin and wire from it to install into my existing harness. For $5 more, it’s not a bad option but Metra really should include an additional wire or two with it for folks with Steering Wheel Controls. There’s a Youtube video about it, but it’s a lot easier than it looks. You remove the red piece inside the harness, push the tan plastic down under the pin, and that frees it. Then you take the your actual harness, locate the needed pin slot (18 in my case, 20 was marked so it was easy to find) and just push it right in until it clicks. I really wish I would I would have read about this before starting my install. This method will give you a wire to solder or connect your steering wheel control module to. For Ford, it’s the green/white wire. I’m the sorta person who will spend way more time and money to do a job the right way, so that’s why I bought two. I really hope this helps! Enjoy! Esta maza de cables consta de dos partes, 1 que es de los altavoces y la conexión de la radio, la cual estaba bien cableada y una vez puenteado con el cableado de la radio funcionó a la primera (para unirlo a los cables de la radio el color de los cables es el correcto y casan a la primera, aunque no está de más comprobar la posición de los pines por si vienen mal de fábrica). Y la 2da parte es la del amplificador…. que estaba mal y tuve que recablearla reordenando los pines mirando los colores del cableado del coche (que tienes que buscarlo en internet) para que funcionase. Una vez hecho todo eso, y buscarme la vida, todo funciona bien, pero visto que me tuve que buscar la vida para la siguiente vez me ahorro comprarlo. Por cierto, para evitar el petardeo del subwoofer al encender la radio, en esta segunda maza hay que poner en el medio un par de resistencias que bajen el voltaje del remote de la radio de 12v a 5 o 6V. Os dejo fotos para que veáis como venía mal montado comparando con el cable del coche, y del esquema de cableado con los colores de cada cable del coche, para que reordeneis los pines. (Atención! El amplificador del coche solo utiliza 1 RCA, con su positivo y negativo “conectadlo al RCA rojo si vuestra radio tiene 2RCA para subwoofer”, 1 remote y el shield/apantallamiento podéis dejarlo sin conectar a la radio) It doesn’t have the right wires installed. The connector fits my 2008 Ford F-150 perfectly so no problem with that. The issue I have is the wires on this adapter don’t align with the wires on my truck. For example, my truck uses pin #3 for illumination (so the stereo dims at night), but this harness doesn’t have a wire in pin #3. My truck doesn’t use pin #4, but this harness has a wire in pin #4. Some other examples are my truck uses pins 14, 15, 18, 19, 20 but this connector doesn’t have wires in these pins. Altogether this harness has 9 wires correct and 6 wires wrong which is a complete failure in my book. I wish they just stuck a wire in each of the 24 pins then I could use the ones I need and ignore the others (add 10 cents to the cost to make up for the extra materials…). Instead I either have to return this and take my chances on another harness or do what I’m going to do which is move wires around (a pain in the ass because they don’t come out of the connector easy) and buy some wire and connectors for the 5 missing wires. Or I could ignore the harness and cut the one off my truck then just twist all the wire pairs together. Regardless of what I end up doing I’m very disappointed in this and even if I return it I’ve wasted time waiting for it and screwing around with it. Frustrating! I bought this adapter to retain the Ford OEM Subwoofer after changing the factory head unit to an aftermarket Head Unit. I only bought it for the smaller “8 pin” Sub adapter (I knew the larger adapter was not compatible, but the price was reasonable, even for just the small sub adapter).The good news is that the plastic shell mates with the factory sub connector. The bad news is that only two of the 4 wires on the adapter lined up with the corresponding wires on the factory sub connector. So I had to relocate two of the 4 wires (and the two shield wires for the RCA cables had to be removed from the adapter, soldered together, and combined into pin 3 of the adapter). Considering I could not find a suitable “exact fit” adapter (or the wiring diagram, from Metra, or anywhere else), it did “fit” the 2012 F250 factory sub connector, and does work (as long as you are willing and able to rewire the adapter). I bought this harness for my 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis which the description says it’s compatible with. Both plugs fit but neither are pinned correctly. The subwoofer RCA plug pins don’t match the positions of the ones in my car’s factory harness and the packaging doesn’t tell you what any of the wires are for with this harness. The main harness is off by a few pins that don’t match up with the other factory harness. I was surprised Amazon isn’t accepting returns on an item they sell.

The convenience of the Easy One Touch mechanism allows you to mount or remove your phone from the holder in seconds. Here we have another great magnetic car phone mount, but this time you can hide the magnetic disc underneath your phone. Broad compatibility Compatible with most cell phones up to 6 inches including iPhone XS MAX XR XS X 8 8Plus, Samsung Galaxy, Sony, Google, LG, HTC, Blackberry, etc. 5 inch, Anti-Scratch Case with 360 Degree Rotation Finger Ring Kickstand Work with Magnetic Car Mount Compatible for iPhone 11 Pro Max 2019 - Black. Remembered your password. Release the lock to rotate the mount 360 degrees on the base. The model number of the product is HLCRIO125 .

Additional Information

Weight 0.2 Pounds lbs


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